Temisgam/Stok, End of Feb. 2007

Temisgang-Report from Claudia Mueller,

22.02. - 24.02.2007

We are about to leave to the monthly home visits to Temisgang. With our entire luggage we hike to the bus station downtown. Of course, there is no destination written on the buses and we are trying our best in asking for the way.
Finally, our backpacks are stored up on the roof, Dolker just arrived and window seats are reserved…as for us - we are ready to start.
Nothing happens and after a while we are facing the facts: wrong bus!
But the direction fits and because of lack of alternatives, we are staying and waiting.

One hour later not one more person could fit into the bus and finally, we are on the way!
Sometimes we drive on proper road, sometimes on dusty and bumpy paths, but always with the most incredible views around every corner.
Deep down on the green Indus River there is ice floating. The mountains are glowing in all shades of brown, red and yellow. And above all there are the brilliant white peaks in front of a steel blue sky. Amazing!

The only problem is: we are getting slower and slower. This time it is neither a steep hill to be climbed, nor a cow to be passed, nor is there any other vehicle coming. The bus is about to break down. Some men are trying their best underneath the engine and after a short while we can continue the journey. Luckily without any other incidents we drive all the way to Temisgang.


Bus is broken down

It is evening and the massive farmer's houses are already in the shadow, only the famous monastery high up on the hill is shining in the last light.

The next morning we are having a fantastic breakfast in the guesthouse family's living room. Then we are start off for the home visits up the valley.

Our worries about our first little patient's reaction to the orthopedic shoes we brought for his peronaeus paralyses last trip turned out to be unfounded.
We only had very shiny black shoes in his size. Although he does not seem to be happy viewing the picture, Urgyan was happy and proud as he could be!

Urgyan finally with his new shoes

Together with the local health worker we are visiting three more patients this day. It is so good to experience his interest. Because of us being there only once a month it is very important that there is a local working with the children.


Great to see what can change within four weeks! A girl with muscular dystrophy gained a lot of strength. Little challenges like walking on a line brought her to the limit last time, no she is much better. The next time we are thinking about bringing a football as a new challenge, because she has improved so much.

In the smooth evening light we were walking the two hours back to the guesthouse

A nun enjoying the sunset

On the next day in Basco everything turns out to run perfect as well. We are getting a lot of rides and reach the patients very fast. During the afternoon we even get the possibility to meet the Rinpoche that visits the village. It is hard to describe the meeting, all three of us were deeply moved.

Two days earlier as planned we arrive in Leh, but we can still manage to visit the monastery festival in Stok.

Festival in Stok

After the mask dances a spectacle of no comparison awaits us! Armed with sabers and spears two oracles rush over the court and the monastery roofs like being obsessed. In anger about the ignorance of the world they are cutting their tongues. Anxiously the people are waiting what they have to say about the coming year.
For us it is hard to understand the deep respect or even fear that the Ladakhis have towards the oracles. But after half an hour we are happy about this coming to an end.

Finally the oracles predictions: everything will be getting better than last year!!!



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