My trip to Ladakh

Report from Christiane Willeit, Austrian Physiotherapist

May 19, 2009

Since my high school days I dreamed of eventually becoming a volunteer in a foreign country. But time should pass before I could fulfil this dream and was allowed to go.
The Internet worldwide presented a lot of information for volunteers. My inner voice first drew me to Africa, but when I came upon the homepage of the German NGO Ladakh-Hilfe e.V. I made the decision to join this organisation.
After four years in Innsbruck I quit my job as a physiotherapist and gave up my apartment, because I now felt that I was ready for the long-awaited step.
On 28 February 2009 I sat in the plane to Delhi and from there I flew on to Leh, Ladakh. My anticipation toward this new, uncharted land grew from minute to minute and I could not believe that I soon would be there in the Himalayas.
Ladakh is situated in the north of India and is known as the "Country of High-passes".
Leh is the capital of Ladakh with 15,000 inhabitants and is situated at an altitude of 3,500 m. Here I would spend 3 month as a volunteer with Ladakh-Hilfe eV. At the airport I was picked up by Dolker, a local employee and two volunteers, Alex and Simone. As a welcoming gift I got a Katak, a white shawl tied around the neck and a roll of toilet paper as a gift which in retrospect proved to be a very valuable present.
I had no problems with the altitude because I was advised to drink and sleep a lot in the beginning. But the next day I really wanted to join the others, when they went our to work,, because I was very curious.

The Ladakh-Hilfe eV was founded in 2003 by Karola Kostial and Juergen. During a trip to Ladakh the the physiotherapist and the orthopaedic-engineer treated a handicapped child. It did not stop with this one child, as in Ladakh there was no provision for the treatment of the disabled. From the beginning their goal was: HELP FOR SELF-HELP.
Volunteers acting as physical or occupational therapists, speech therapists, or special educators came to Ladakh, since fulfilled their commitment to help the people with disability (PWD).

And now I was here to help with this work!!!

In 2008, the NGO (non government organization) REWA Society in Ladakh and one branch of the Ladakh-Hilfe eV in Switzerland founded. The goal in the distant future would be that the Society REWA would stand on its own without anymore support from Germany.
The local team here in Ladakh consists of an already trained physiotherapist named Kunzang, Dolkar starts her training in summer as a PT in Delhi , Chuskit wants to be a speech therapist and Tundup wants to specialize in technical orthopeadics.

Three times a week we have therapy at RAC (REWA-ability-center).
Our driver Tundup picks up the children with our jeep and takes them home after therapy. Most of the children are accompanied by a parent or a relative, who also participates in therapy. Normally, a local employee and one volunteer treat a patient together. They discuss the plan of therapy together and we volunteers help to answer questions, help during the treatment and give suggestions as to the treatment and support the locals with handling and the therapy.
Most of the children suffer from a neurological disorder such as cerebral palsy, paralyses, stroke, hydrocephalus, atethosis. Others have been born with a scoliosis, with complications such as respiratory distress or acquire polio. For many children there is still no diagnosis and the treatments the symptoms is in the main focus.
The language barrier is often a big problem. You need to always have a local translator to tell the parents and the children how to do their exercises. Because the children often are looking for contact and talk with us, it is a pity that we do not understand, because not always there is a local here to translate.

But I have also learned that there is a language beyond words there. Even if you talk with hands and feet, or only with a smile can, communication is possible! And that's the beauty here in Ladakh
I do not feel as a tourist who just wants to learn about country and people. As a volunteer I can see the country from another perspective, I get a much better insight into the culture and its people.
During our home visits I experience wonderful and unforgettable moments. It is very interesting to see how the families in Ladakh live and maintain their customs. In our guest house every morning we smell the burning incense to clean the area. Then we hear the prayers where the locals recite their daily mantra.
Here in Leh blows another wind then in Innsbruck. I was accustomed to the rhythm of Innsbruck I needed some time to get used to all the new and unknown processes.
Our day begins with the fetching of water. Until mid-April we had the water only from the river and also did our washing there. Meanwhile, we have fresh water between 7-9 in the morning from the pump in the garden. The water from the pipes in the bathroom we use for the toilet, washing clothes or dishes. Since mid-April, we can also shower with warm water. What a wonderful feeling! Before the water was heated in a pot and we poured it over ourselves with a small container. I have never been out of the shower as fast as here, because the outside temperature was quite low. Despite the somewhat elaborate preparation I liked this 'washing ceremony ' very much. But now I would rather use the flowing, warm water in the shower.
Our volunteers live in a guest house in the Changsparoad in which the office of the Ladakh-Help is located. Our team is currently made up out of four women, Alexandra and Anni from Germany, Anja from Switzerland and me. We sleep two each in one room, cook and eat together and have a lot of fun together. It feels very good when you are surrounded by nice people, where all thing the same, have the same goal and where we help each other if we do not have a good day.
Our breakfast consists of bread with butter and jam or honey, porridge (oatmeal), milk or yogurt with fruit. When I came to Ladakh in March, there was not much vegetables and fruits on the market. The market women were selling potatoes, carrots, onions and cabbage. When it got warmer many more things were offered: melanzani, cucumbers, beans, peas, cauliflower, apples and grapes. I am amazed at myself about how much I enjoyed this palatable change. At home can go to the supermarket and have everything. The excess supply, which we have in our country, does not leave room for such small enjoyments.

It is spring now and we enjoy melons, mangos and bananas, apricot trees are blooming pink, the cultivated apple trees are flurrying with the bees and bumblebees and the fields are being culitvated by the farmers using the Dzos (a cross between cow and yak). In the morning there are twittering birds in front of our windows, awakening us to the new day.
As already mentioned we meet 3 times weekly at 11:00 hrs at the RAC. Our walk there takes 15 min. and now the Changspa road slowly awakens to summer live. I arrived in March when it was still off-season, but it changes very fast. One business after another is opening its doors and the number of tourist increases also from day to day. The people in town know us and do not mistake us for tourists; we are accepted and respected as helpers.
Mr. David, the local project manager on site, was recently in Delhi and came with a large cargo of aids such as wheelchairs and walkers, therapy materials for the promotion of fine motorics, sensation, concentration, balance and coordination. This is only possible with the help of donations and when I see what a great pleasure this all brings to the local patients and especially the children, then I think the donation is a great thing.
It was not always easy to understand the locals, to cope with their attitudes and habits. There were some disagreements since the indigenous people are not accustomed to talk about problems and face them outright, a habit we are used to. This cultural difference can become a big issue but we tried by the means of lengthy discussions to eliminate the conflicts, but it requires great sensibility to find the correct way to not to hurt our partners.
Next week the whole team is off to a fieldtrip to DA Hanu. The remote areas are visited 2-3 times a year by the team of Ladakh-Hilfe. We bring needed aids such as crutches, orthopaedic shoes, toys, writing materials, or clothing and do exersices and teach the locals.
Soon my time as a physiotherapist in Ladakh will come to an end and I leave with one laughing and crying eye. I know that I did a good and useful work, but my concern is for a better future for these children. How helpful were my efforts to assist the locals in the therapy and advice? I for myself have fulfilled my dream of self-development and growth which I am taking back home. But what do I leave behind? I am very glad that I took this big step and went to Ladakh. Although it was not always easy and sometimes I was homesick, I was richly fulfilled. I hope that it was not the last I was here and that I am able to work in another country as a volunteer.
Before going back home, I will explore some of the "high passes" with the famous treks. Some I already know and for anyone who loves the mountains, Ladakh is a little paradise!
I thank all who encouraged and supported me with their love and friendship.

FOR THE PEACE ON EARTH
With the words of a good friend I want to remind you to support Ladakh-Hilfe/REWA and its mission with funds and donations. Even the smallest amount counts and is of help for the children.

Thank you.
Christiane Willeit from Gais